The Baianas of Santa Teresa

Clad in their traditional white robes and cooking up delicious-smelling goodies in bubbling pots, the famous Baianas (natives of Bahia) of Santa Teresa are not hard to spot. Selling spicy savouries and oh-so-sweet treats, the Baianas add an exotic element to the boho neighbourhood’s lively dining scene.

There are two Bahian women with regular spots in the neighborhood, and their sweet or spicy goodies are an absolute treat.  On weekend nights, one sets up her stall in front of the hugely popular Armazem do Thiago, more commonly known as Bar do Gomez, at the corner of Rua Aurea and Rua Monte Alegre.

The drinkers that gather at the bar’s outdoor drinking space flock to fill up on delicious Acaraje – a ball of corn that is deep fried, cut open and typically filled with shrimp and a spicy sauce.  Meanwhile, up the hill at Almirante Alexandrina, a second Bahian woman sells Acaraje, Vatapa – a snack made with flour, shrimp, coconut, and palm oil – alongside sweets made with sugar, condensed milk and coconut.

The stall is strategically located alongside two good bars – the very reasonably priced Bar do Bonde and the German bar  Mike’s Haus, and the snacks make a cheap, filling and extremely tasty alternative to the food on the bars’ menu.

I headed to Bar do Bonde on a warm Friday night with a couple of friends, and sat at a pavement table drinking mojitos while our sizzling Acaraje was cooked up in front of us. While my friends enjoyed theirs filled with shrimp, the friendly Baiana was more than happy to whip up seafood-free for the fussy vegetarian in the party (yes, that’ll be me…). With a hot pepper sauce, chopped tomatoes and a delicious gooey substance similar to guacamole, my vegetarian Acaraje was an absolute treat. Be warned though, these are not the easiest snacks to eat – ask for extra paper napkins and be prepared to look a little undignified!

There’s no shortage of places to enjoy a meal in Santa Teresa, but those  who a looking for a cheap snack can